By Dan Golden, Staff Writer
When making new friends, I tend to use this as an icebreaker: “What is the best $20 you’ve ever spent?” The answers tend to vary wildly from a fun accessory enhancing an outfit, to an adorable knickknack from Comic Con, to just the right bouquet of flowers for a significant other. If you were to ask me what the best $20 I ever spent was, I’d say a tote bag with Pedro Pascal’s face painted on the side acquired from NYCC in 2023. A close 2nd however would be lunch at Hamburger America.
Located in the Village just off MacDougal, Hamburger America sits in a clean pre-war building, unassuming from the outside. Window decals display the name of the restaurant along with a drawing of its proprietor, George Motz. His hair slightly crazed and featuring his signature mutton chops complete the sparse decoration outside the restaurant. Once inside, you are transported back in time to the 50s; the height of American fast food and diner culture. A counter facing the flat-top grill greets you along with a menu above the red stools surrounding the counter. To your right, photographs of classic and famous burger destinations across the country such as: Keller’s Drive In of Texas, Louis’ Lunch of Connecticut (allegedly the birthplace of the hamburger) and White Mana of New Jersey. Motz didn’t want to reinvent the wheel when designing his restaurant, but to pay homage to what he sees as Hamburger History.
Motz is something of a legend in the burger world. A passion project documentary on the hamburger that goes by the same name as his restaurant took him on a journey across the country, visiting countless destinations and eating thousands of burgers in what he calls “research”. In the name of science, he learned how burgers share a similar trait to American barbeque in that certain cooking methods are regional. In Connecticut, he discovered places that steam their burgers, forgoing the grill or greasy flat top. Some dives in Texas and Oklahoma smash their patties to order, and sport their own sauce unique to each individual restaurant. After television shows, multiple books, and even YouTube shows, Motz concluded the final step on his journey of research was to open his own burger joint.
On the very simple menu are two burger choices: a Classic Smash Burger featuring cheese, pickles, mustard and raw diced onion, and his homage to a burger originating from Oklahoma, The Oklahoma Fried Onion Burger. The Oklahoma Burger features a unique element: caramelized onions smashed into the bottom of the burger. Raw onions are placed on the raw side of a smashed burger (it sounds weird but hear me out) before being flipped and griddled to a point of caramelization in mere minutes! He also features a burger of the month, honoring restaurants around the country by bringing hyper regional specialties to the hustle and bustle of New York for us to try. However, on this day, he seemed to offer a chili dog in place of a special burger. In the spirit of Motz and in the name of science (and hunger) I ordered both burgers and the chili dog with a side of fries and a coke. You might be asking yourself “Dan, how are you able to eat so much heavy fried food and continue on with your day?” The answer dear reader is that I don’t. I am currently writing this review from a nearby Starbucks because the moment I find a comfy seat or couch, I will not be moving for at least a few hours.
The fries came first, shoestring fries reminiscent of a certain McFast Food chain currently under fire for an E. Coli outbreak. The fries are salted properly, crispy on the outside and fluffy on the inside. $4.25 might be a lot for fries and I would agree with you considering the portion is small and no large upgrade option exists, yet we push on. Next is the chili dog, prepared quickly in front of my eyes consisting of a snappy Sabrett hotdog, steamed bun, special ground beef chili, diced onion and mustard. This was the biggest surprise as I tend to be a mustard only guy on a hotdog. The chili paired well with the sharpness of the mustard and onion with the hotdog providing texture and flavor. Outstanding. Next come my burgers, the Classic and Oklahoma style. The Classic is everything you like about a fast food burger elevated by using fresh ingredients without reinventing the wheel. Good beef smashed fresh, diced onions and perfect pickle chips coming together served in wax paper and a tiny plate. Exquisite, no notes. The Oklahoma Burger is an experience all by itself. Also served in wax paper on a tiny plate, this burger features those caramelized onions on the bottom and are responsible for the beautiful and grease forward smell emanating throughout the place. Some onions are crispy, some raw, most caramelized, all delicious. Washing it all down with a cold and refreshing Coke rounds out the meal.
A rule posted near the counter reads “No laptops or newspapers! 30 minutes at the counter!” so I had to take notes on my phone in between bites and conversations with my fellow diners, who sat quite close to make room for as many stools around the counter as possible. On my right, a young photographer named Ben from Australia, who is visiting the city and his sister. A consumer of food videos on YouTube, Ben has viewed the videos featuring Motz on the YouTube channel First we Feast and made his way to the establishment. He ordered the Oklahoma Burger and seemed to relish in every bite. Our conversation ranged from travel plans to food and hobbies, all in the span of 10 minutes. He even took a picture of all of the food I ordered, crowding my space and spilling into his. I regret forgetting to ask Ben about my famous icebreaker but thankfully he left me his Instagram and I can reach out to him soon to ask.
Ben left and was very quickly replaced by the front of house staff member running around cleaning spaces at the counter for a gentleman named Gautam. A blogger by hobby who recently quit his job at Tesla to follow his partner to Amsterdam, planning to move on Saturday. He was walking around the area and stumbled into the place eager for a burger and Chocolate milk, a combination that is intriguing and One that I would try if I drank milk as a beverage which I do not. We briefly talked about food, plans for our futures and food and work and food. This time it was I who had to leave quickly, but I waited until I saw his reaction to the Oklahoma burger. His eyes opened wide in amazement and joy. He gets it and I hope you do as well.
Now as I slowly start to dip into a food coma sure to last the rest of the day and evening, I come to the point of the review where I either recommend the place or dissuade you from going. Hopefully you were paying attention when I stated in the first paragraph that this was the 2nd best $20 I have ever spent. Well $25 after tax and tip but you get the point. If you’re in the city and craving a burger and don’t feel like answering the question “sparkling or flat water” when ordering your meal, this is the place for you. A fun, fast-paced burger lovers dream that is a love letter to the American diet of meat, cheese, and bread. Come hungry, and more importantly, don’t eat two burgers, a loaded hotdog and fries before writing a 1300 word review.
Be First to Comment